Useful Hardware you use in and around your place

Make your Saw Horse more versitile

2008-02-28T09:24:00.000-08:00

Here is a great Idea to use in your shop to add use to your Saw Horse.

http://images.meredith.com/wood/images/newsletters/0208/021408-Wood-Tipl.jpg

Home Renovation, Now ??

2008-02-26T17:14:00.000-08:00

As yesterday's ugly fourth-quarter results from Lowe's demonstrated, the housing slump is only beginning to leave its steel-toed boot marks on the bottom lines of Corporate America. Lowe's, the second-biggest home improvement retailer behind Home Depot, cited the “unprecedented” housing downturn in posting a 33-per-cent drop in profit.

And it warned there's more pain on the way.

True, Lowe's stock rallied on the results, but that was only because the per share numbers, although awful, were a few pennies less awful than some analysts expected. It's hard to see how anyone can put a positive spin on a quarter in which same-store sales plunged 7.6 per cent. For fiscal 2008, Lowe's expects same-store sales to tumble by 5 to 6 per cent.

So now May be the time to plan for the renovations to your home as the prices for materials come down.

There will be a lot of good deals on just about any tools and hardware.

Buying the New Latest Tool

2007-05-30T20:00:00.000-07:00

Need a new Tool, be aware

Generally, it is only one person in a relationship that likes to buy tools.

If you are that person, you need to realize that the other person in your relationship may not understand if you come home with a new tool every week.

The best way to stay out of trouble is to put together a tool budget as part of your annual household expenses.

That way, you can get the tools you want-I mean, need-and not break the bank or your other half's temper.

Cordless Drill Battery Packs

2006-05-14T10:12:00.000-07:00

Portable power packs that snap into various cordless tools, ranging in voltages from 3.6V to 36V.

Home repair cordless power tools should use 12V to 18V cordless battery packs.

Cordless battery packs are powered by numerous single batteries of 1.2 volts each.

Older battery packs used cadmium batteries which is both a heavy metal and toxic.

Look for battery packs that use Nickel Metal Hydride for better performance and environmental responsibility.

Take care and dispose of them properly

Cordless Drill Features

2006-05-03T08:17:00.000-07:00

THE RIGHT CORDLESS DRILL FOR THE JOB

LIGHT MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR

REPAIR AND REMODELING

HEAVY-DUTY CONSTRUCTION

Installing drapery brackets; drilling holes for drywall anchors; assembling a barbecue grill; putting new handles on cabinet doors and drawers; removing and replacing door hinges.
Building a storage rack; replacing deck railings and fence pickets; drilling pilot holes and driving screws in hardwood or plywood; making furniture; hanging drywall. Drilling holes for bolts and spikes in pressure-treated wood and landscape timbers; drilling holes in masonry walls; installing decking; drilling into steel.

FEATURES YOU'LL NEED These tasks are quick ones, so a tool with one battery will do.

For drilling holes and driving screws, get a drill with two fixed speeds; variable speed is an option. Also, look for an adjustable clutch.
Go with at least a 9.6V tool; you'll need the extra power. In fact, a 12V drill fits the bill for this job list, but the added power brings extra size and weight.

No question about it — you're in the big leagues. These projects — especially drilling large-diameter holes and driving long screws — demand a high-voltage tool.

NOTES For the best combination of power, portability and price, stay in the 6 to 7.2V range. The Ryobi HP61 is a nifty 6V, two-speed model.

This super-compact tool comes with a built-in level, onboard storage for two bits and a clutch. You also get four drill bits, a dozen driver bits and eight socket drivers.

A comparable tool is the Black & Decker 9099KB ,7.2V.
For these tasks, you'll want variable speed, two speed ranges, a clutch and a T-handle. Be sure to get a second battery so you don't run out of power in the middle of a project.

Drills in this category range from $60 to $140. Two professional-level 9.6V models that have all these features are the Hitachi FDS10DVA and Makita 6222DWLEK ).

Match the Tool to the Job

2006-04-19T08:13:00.000-07:00

With all the different models of drill/drivers on the market, it's easy to buy more tool than you really need.

The solution:
Buy a drill based on how you will use it. It doesn't make sense to pay $200 for a tool you'll use only to hang pictures. Nor is it a good idea to pay $50 for a drill only to have the motor burn out after a few days of heavy work.

You don't have to drive yourself crazy trying to think up all the possible jobs you'll have for your new tool.

If you ever need more tool than you have, you can step up in power and options.

Or rent a more powerful drill for those projects that require one.

BUYING BASICS for Drills

2006-04-16T17:12:00.000-07:00

Check out drills in home centers, noting their weight and balance.

Try out vertical and horizontal drilling positions to see how comfortable you feel. Contoured grips and rubber cushioning on some models make them very comfortable, even when you're applying direct palm pressure.

While you're at it, see how easy it is to change clutch settings and operate the keyless chuck.

Home centers often discount hand tools, so be on the lookout for promotions.

If you know the model you want, check out prices over the phone.

Mail-order suppliers with sizable drill offerings.

If you purchase a drill online or through mail order, be sure to account for the shipping charges when comparing prices against those at a home center.

BATTERIES AND CHARGERS

2006-04-12T08:11:00.000-07:00

Nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) batteries represent the latest breakthrough in batteries.

They're smaller and run longer than standard nickel-cadmium (Nicad) batteries.

NiMH batteries also pose less of a hazard when it comes to disposal than Nicads because they don't contain any cadmium, which is highly toxic.

Makita, Bosch, Hitachi and DeWalt offer NiMH batteries, and other manufacturers will soon produce these power cells too.

All cordless drills come with a battery charger, with recharge times ranging from 15 minutes to three hours.

But faster isn't necessarily better. A contractor might depend on fast recharges, but slower recharging isn't usually a concern at home, especially if you have two batteries. What's more, there are drawbacks to fast charging.

A quick recharge can damage a battery by generating excessive heat, unless it's a specially designed unit.

If you want a speedy recharge, go with a tool from Makita, Hitachi or Panasonic, whose "smart" chargers are equipped with temperature sensors and feedback circuitry that protect batteries.

These units provide a charge in as little as nine minutes without battery damage.

Two Speed Cordless Drills

2006-04-09T11:10:00.000-07:00

The least expensive drills run at a single speed, but most have two fixed speeds: 300 rpm and 800 rpm.
A slide switch or trigger lets you select high or low speed. These drills are ideal for most light-duty operations.

The low speed is for driving screws, the high speed for drilling holes.

For more refined carpentry and repair tasks, choose a drill that has the same two-speed switch and a trigger with variable speed control that lets you vary the speed from 0 rpm to the top of each range.

If you do more hole drilling than screwdriving, look for more speed — 1,000 rpm or higher — at the top end.

Adjustable Clutch on Cordless Drill

2006-04-05T18:08:00.000-07:00

An adjustable clutch is what separates electric drills from cordless drill/drivers.

Located just behind the chuck, the clutch disengages the drive shaft of the drill, making a clicking sound, when a preset level of resistance is reached.

The result is that the motor is still turning, but the screwdriver bit isn't.

Why does a drill need a clutch? It gives you control so you don't strip a screw or overdrive it once it's snug.

It also helps protect the motor when a lot of resistance is met in driving a screw or tightening a bolt.

The number of separate clutch settings varies depending on the drill; better drills have at least 24 settings.

With that many clutch settings, you can really fine-tune the power a drill delivers. Settings with the lowest numbers are for small screws, higher numbers are for larger screws.

Most clutches also have a drill setting, which allows the motor to drive the bit at full power.

Grips on drills

2006-04-01T17:07:00.000-08:00

Before cordless drill/drivers arrived, most drills had pistol grips, where the handle is behind the motor like the handle of a gun.

But most of today's cordless models are equipped with a T-handle:

The handle base flares to prevent hand slippage and accommodate a battery. Because the battery is centered under the weight and bulk of the motor, a T-handle provides better overall balance, particularly in heavier drills.

T-handle drills can often get into tighter spaces because your hand is out of the way in the center of the drill.

But for heavy-duty drilling and driving large screws, a pistol grip does let you apply pressure higher up — almost directly behind the bit — allowing you to put more force on the work.

Cordless Drill Batteries

2006-03-30T09:03:00.000-08:00

For cordless drills, power is measured in battery voltage.

Higher voltage means more torque-spinning strength to overcome resistance.

Over the last decade, top-end voltage has increased from 9.6 to 18V, but the range of models include 6, 7.2, 9.6, 12, 14.4 and 18V.

Today's higher-voltage drills have enough power to bore big holes in framing lumber and flooring.

The trade-off for power is weight. A typical 9.6V drill weighs 3 1/2 lbs., while an 18V model weighs up to 10 lbs.

Cordless drill photo and parts

2006-03-25T23:17:00.000-08:00

What to Look For in a Cordless Drill

Chuck jaws: Maximum capacity on most drills is 3/8 inches. Some 14.4 and 18V drills can handle 1/2-inch-diameter bits.
Clutch: More settings give you greater control of the depth screws are driven.
Speed-range switch: High is for drilling; low is for driving screws. Look for the widest range between them.
Forward/reverse switch: Should be easy to operate with your thumb and trigger finger.
Hand grip: Texture and contour should aid your grip; try out the grip before you buy.
Voltage: More voltage means more power but also added weight.
Battery: Two are better than one. New NiMH batteries offer some advantages.
Trigger: Make sure your index finger fits around it comfortably when gripping drill. Variable speed offers the greatest control.
Keyless chuck: Hand-turn it to open and close the chuck jaws.

Cordless Drills

2006-03-24T04:58:00.000-08:00

Whether you are just learning the basics of simple maintenance or are taking on a second addition to the house, a good drill is essential.

If it's a cordless model, you can drill holes and drive screws with the same tool — and not have to worry about finding an outlet near the work to power the drill.

The good news:

There are hundreds of these drills on the market; prices range from $40 to $230.

The bad news:

It's not always clear which drills you should be considering.

Safety Tip Reminder

2006-03-14T16:39:00.000-08:00

Woodworking Shop Safety
10 Safety Tips to Post in Your Shop

1) Think Before You Cut – The most powerful tool in your shop is your brain, use it. Thinking your cuts and movements through before acting can help save both fingers and scrapwood.

2) Keep a Clean Shop – A cluttered shop is an accident waiting to happen. Keeping your shop clean will help protect you, and your tools, from tripping hazards.

3) Avoid Distractions – Pay attention to your actions. Looking up to watch the shop TV or visitor can result in your hand contacting the blade. Always wait until you have completed your cut before you take your eyes off the blade.

4) Don’t Rush – Keep in mind that this is just a hobby and take a break when you feel rushed or frustrated with a project. Mistakes happen when we rush to complete a job.

5) Don’t Force It – If your saw is resisting the cut, stop and see what’s wrong. A misaligned rip fence or improperly seated throat plate can sometimes cause a board to get stuck in mid cut. Forcing the board in these situations may cause kickback or contact with the blade. Take a moment to evaluate the situation and determine the problem.

6) Protect Yourself – Wearing the proper shop protection is an important part of safe tool operation. Goggles, Ear Protection, and Lung Protection should be used when operating tools. Use push sticks when working close to the blade and make sure the tool's safety features are in place.

7) Let the Tool Stop – Giving the power tool time to wind down after a cut is an often-overlooked safety mistake. Even without power, the spinning blade can still do a lot of damage.

8) Fumes and Dust – Solvent fumes and airborne dust can present health and explosion hazards. Care should be taken to ensure a supply of fresh air and use only explosion proof vent fans.

9) Wear Appropriate Clothing – Loose clothing or hair can get caught in power tools and cause severe injury.

10) No Alcohol – Too many woodworkers have been injured because Alcohol clouded their judgment. Avoid their mistakes and wait until after you’re done in the shop.

Ionization Smoke Detectors

2006-03-05T21:46:00.000-08:00

Kidde Basic

Where to buy While this no-frills ionization model is good at detecting high-flame fires, it is less adept at sensing smoky fires, such as those caused by smoldering bedding.

That’s why ionization smoke detectors are not the best choice for bedrooms.

Experts prefer models such as the First Alert Dual Sensor, which also has a photoelectric sensor for detecting slow, smoldering blazes.

KidSmart Brand Vocal Fire Alarm

Reviews say the KidSmart combats a major problem involving children and house fires.

Studies show that children often sleep through a normal smoke detector's alarm -- or else they respond so slowly that they cannot escape the house within the critical two-minute time window.

The KidSmart is a photoelectric detector that allows parents to record a message in their own voice.

Studies say that children are much more likely to respond quickly to a parent's voice, and the majority of kids in tests were awake and moving within 32 seconds of the KidSmart's alarm.

Since this model is photoelectric only, you'll also want to install ionization alarms.

Smoke Alarm with Lithium Battery

2006-03-01T22:08:00.000-08:00

First Alert 10-year Lithium Smoke Alarm

This unit features a ten-year non-replaceable lithium battery, which spares you from changing a battery each year, but this smoke alarm has only an ionization sensor, so it’s less effective at detecting smoky fires.

Reviews say this is a good choice if you want a detector with a very long battery life, but since it lacks a dual sensor, it is best used with a photoelectric detector.

The cost of a second detector can eat up the savings from not having to replace the batteries in this unit.

Setting up a fire escape route out of your home is a must if you have small children. Contact the local Fire Marchall's Office or you nearest Fire Station for help in planning your escape route from you home or apartment.

Smoke Detectors for the Shop and Home

2006-02-26T20:02:00.000-08:00

One of the most important safety devices for the home and Shop are Smoke Detectors.

In reviews, experts consistently point to the First Alert Dual Sensor as the best smoke detector.

It runs on a replaceable nine-volt battery and features a combination ionization and photoelectric sensor that is by far the most accurate and effective detection method available.

The SA302 has extra features that many detectors do not, such as remote-controlled alarm silence and test, Intelligent Sensing, which differentiates non-threatening conditions (i.e., kitchen smoke) from real emergencies, and automatic daily self-check test. This model has a ten-year warranty.

With Smoke Detectors one should do training with the family on what to do in the case of a fire in the home.

Cordless Electric Hedge Trimmer

2006-01-19T18:44:00.000-08:00

Buying Cordless electric.

While all the corded models above keep you within 100 feet of an outlet, the 18-volt Black & Decker offers cordless convenience; it's also the lightest, quietest model in our chart.

Based on testing, the Black & Decker is a good choice for quick trims, handling branches up to just under a half-inch. An extra battery (*est. $45) will increase runtime.
The Black & Decker has a lock-off switch, and the blade stops almost instantly when the switch is turned off.
Gasoline powered.

For cordless mobility plus power rated for .75-inch branches, the gasoline-powered Echo gets high scores in comparative reviews.

Experts say its double-reciprocating blades cut through branches and thick shrubbery without jamming or slowing down.

It weighs 5 or 6 pounds more than the electric models (above), but you don't have to drag a heavy extension cord.

You'll need hearing protection while using it, and reviewers find the exhaust fumes annoying, but vibration dampening is built into this model.

The two-cycle engine meets clean air requirements without sacrificing fuel economy.

Corded electric Hedge Trimmer

2006-01-10T16:42:00.000-08:00

Corded electric.

For a little over half the price, experts say the single-bladed one gives you nearly the same performance as the double bladed, handling half-inch branches with minimal noise and vibration.
Most have a dual-switch safety feature , but the blade doesn't stop as quickly after the trimmer is turned off.

It should have a front shield for added safety, though users give this feature mixed reviews.

Where to buy Corded electric. Just about any hardware store.

If your budget requires you to compromise, experts say the Craftsman can still get the job done—just less smoothly, with more noise and vibration than the more pricey Makita and Little Wonder .

The Craftsman doesn't have a dual-switch safety feature, though there is a lock-off switch to prevent accidental starts.
You can also lock the switch on to prevent trigger-finger fatigue.

A cord clip keeps the cord from being accidentally disconnected.

Hedge Trimmer

2006-01-09T19:19:00.000-08:00

High End Trimmers

Corded electric hedge trimmers.

Corded Electric have a top range of about 100'.

Comparative tests give the Higher priced ones top ranking among corded trimmers, with enough quiet power to handle half-inch branches.

These models also have a host of safety features.

Double reciprocating blades, instead of a single blade, are made to last longer, require less sharpening, and minimize vibration.

Most come in three blade lengths, with 24-inch blades; experts say these models have the best balance. The 19-inch and 30-inch Models are also available.

These trimmers run in price from about $ 150.oo and up.

Have the salesman point out all of the features, if you can find salesperson with knowledge of the product all the better.

Lawn Mowers for the rugged yard

2005-12-29T08:15:00.000-08:00

Many homeowners struggle with hard-to-mow yards.

There are alternatives to the standard-size mowing wheel. For instance, some yards are marred by bumpy surfaces.

Among the most challenging for mowing are those studded with exposed tree roots.

With adjustable high wheels, you can handle the job with ease.

The high rear wheels will come in most handy if you have a slope to mow, since they make the equipment so much easier to push.

Anyone who doubts this should arrange to test a high-wheel lawn mower on a hill.

The experience could be a real eye-opener!

Tools for Planting

2005-12-20T18:06:00.000-08:00

Most homeowners will want to add new plants to dress up the home’s appearance. .

For basic gardening, the list of necessary tools is short.
You’ll want a shovel for digging large holes and cultivating existing landscape beds, a hand trowel to dig holes for small plants, and a hand cultivator for loosening the soil in small areas.
Weeders may not be necessary if adequate mulch is used, and weeds can easily be kept in check in small areas by hand pulling.

Once these basic items are obtained, you may consider additional purchases for specific needs. If disposing of yard waste is a problem, you may want to invest in a chipper to grind small branches into mulch, or a leaf shredder to help compact autumn leaves and hasten their decomposition.

If you have a lot of hedges, you may want a power hedge trimmer to save time. Gardeners will find a wide range of options to till, cultivate, and weed the beds.

It’s best to start out with a few basic items, and live with them a while to determine any additional needs.

Keep in mind that the more tools you purchase, the bigger the storage area that will be needed – and sheds are expensive.
Weigh the added convenience by having a specialized tool against the expense and inconvenience of storing it.
Buy quality tools instead of inexpensive ones that won’t last long, if you can afford it, and keep them well maintained to extend their life.

You’ll find that with a few basic tools and pride in your home’s appearance, your yard will look great.

Yard Tools

2005-12-20T18:04:00.000-08:00

After the lawn is mowed, you’ll need to trim around the edges.

Gas and electric powered trimmers are available, but the gas trimmer will allow more freedom of movement.

Careful landscaping can minimize the need to trim by eliminating areas the lawn mower won’t reach, but you’ll probably need one anyway.

Trimmers can serve double duty as a sidewalk edger, too, though the result won’t look quite as neat.
A broadcast spreader is invaluable for fertilizing and seeding. And of course, the approach of fall will signal the need to purchase a rake.

A wheelbarrow is also an important addition.

Trees and bushes will need to be pruned, and hedges will need trimming.

You’ll need a hand pruner for keeping bushes neat and healthy, and a lopper for cutting bigger branches.
If you have hedges, you’ll need a hedge shear for keeping them trimmed.

Trees usually require pruning at some point, often quite high. You can either purchase a tree pruner, climb up on a ladder with a saw, or call the professionals when these jobs need to be done.
If money is short, these items can be purchased inexpensively – but an investment in quality tools will pay off in the long run and make the work easier.

Tools for the Yard

2005-12-20T17:29:00.000-08:00

If you’re a new homeowner, chances are you need a trip to the hardware store to stock up on tools for lawn and garden care.

It seems there’s a gadget for every purpose, some quite specialized, and it’s tough to know where to start.
What are the most important things that you’ll need right away, and which items can you wait to add later?

The biggest investment may be the lawn mower.

Depending on the size of your property, you may prefer a riding mower.

But if you have a half acre or less to maintain, a push mower will do the job just fine.

If you have a small yard, a manual reel mower may be practical too, though they can be hard to find.
Whichever you choose, keep the blades sharp, and proper care and cleaning will extend its life.

Power Hand Planers

2005-12-19T16:24:00.000-08:00

I can remember my fathers toolbox, it had about four or five different sizes of hand planes in it.

There is no better sence of accomplishment than running your fingers over a piece of wood which you have just finished by hand.

This may not be for all, for those who are in a hurry---

There are power planers available that really reduce the hard work that is needed for using a hand plane.

Most of these powered hand planers have a cutting width of about 3 1/2 to 4 inches.

You can take off just a thin slice of wood, or a heavier cut with little effort.

You really have to watch when you use one of these powered planers as they take wook of very quickly.

Practice on some scrap wood is a must, until you get used to how well the power planer works.

These planers sell from $25-30 and up.

Remember: you only get what you pay for, and there are a lot of sub-standard pieces of equipment available out there .

Home Heat Leaks

2005-12-11T11:18:00.000-08:00

If you feel a shiver each time you open your utility bill, your house may be too cold. More likely, however, you're paying more than you should to heat it.

In either case, you can make changes now that will make your home more comfortable and save you money.

These aren't big projects like adding attic insulation or replacing your windows — save those for later. They're easy-to-do and inexpensive techniques.

The most complicated will take a weekend afternoon, and many take little time and don't even require the purchase of materials, only changing a habit or two.

Others can be done for as little as $10. We'll take a look first at the obvious stuff and then at more specialized — but still simple — energy-saving techniques.

Square up your Drill Press Table

2005-12-03T15:08:00.000-08:00

Double Checking a Drill Press Table

I have a small bench top drill press with a table that tilts to accommodate drilling angled holes, which is very handy.
Unfortunately, it doesn't have any stops or markings to let me know when I've got the table set back square to the spindle and bit.
I've seen techniques using a square to set the table perpendicular to the drill press column.

I figured it was more important that the table be perpendicular with a bit, so I made a simple jig I could insert in the chuck to set the table correctly.

The jig took me no more than five minutes to put together. It's just a narrow piece of ¼"-thick scrap wood that I cut about four inches long.
I drilled a hole through the face near each end and pushed a 2"-long machine screw through each hole, pointing in opposite directions.
The nuts hold the screws snug so they are roughly parallel To set the table.

I tighten one of the screws in the chuck. Then I raise the drill press table until the screw sticking down from my jig just touches the table surface at one corner.
I rotate the chuck by hand to four or five different positions, and adjust the table angle until the screw just barely touches the table at every point.

This process is easy, but I don't want to go through it every time I change the table angle. So once I had the table set, I drew a thin line with permanent marker where the table meets its mounting arm.

thanks to wannalearn.com for this great article

A Little smile for today

2005-11-16T21:56:00.000-08:00

If someone is forced to eat crow over and over,
do they risk becoming a raven lunatic?

Thanks to
Jeffrey Peckitt, Oakville, Ont.

Working with your wood lathe

2005-11-09T21:48:00.000-08:00

When turning a round tenon on a lathe it is easy to under-size the outside diameter of the tenon.

Rather than scrapping the tenon try this.

Using a hand plane, shave off a length of the same species of wood from a scrap board.

Coat both the scrap and tenon with glue and wrap it around the under-sized tenon and secure it with a rubber band.

After the glue dries you can sand or turn the tenon to the correct size on the lathe.

Note: This technique can also be used for old chairs where the tenons have loosened over time.

Carbon Monoxide and Heating Safely

2005-11-06T23:47:00.000-08:00

As the home heating season approaches, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) urges consumers to have a professional inspection of all fuel- burning appliances -- including furnaces, stoves, fireplaces, clothes dryers and space heaters -- to detect deadly carbon monoxide (CO) leaks.

These appliances burn fuels -- typically gas, both natural and liquefied petroleum; kerosene; oil; coal; and wood. Under certain conditions, these appliances can produce deadly CO, but with proper installation and maintenance, are safe to use.

CO is a colorless, odorless gas produced by burning any fuel. The initial symptoms of CO poisoning are similar to flu, and include headache, fatigue, shortness of breath, nausea and dizziness. Exposure to high levels of CO can cause death.

"CO poisoning associated with using fuel-burning appliances kills more than 200 people each year and sends about 10,000 to hospital emergency rooms for treatment," said CPSC Chairman Ann Brown.

CPSC recommends the yearly, professional inspection include checking chimneys, flues and vents for leakage and blockage by creosote and debris. Leakage through cracks or holes could cause black stains on the outside of the chimney or flue. These stains can mean that pollutants are leaking into the house. Also, have all vents to furnaces, water heaters, boilers and other fuel-burning appliances checked to make sure they are not loose or disconnected.

Make sure your appliances are inspected for adequate ventilation. A supply of fresh air is important to help carry pollutants up the chimney, stovepipe or flue, and is necessary for the complete combustion of any fuel. Never block ventilation air openings.

CPSC recommends that every home should have at least one CO detector that meets the requirements of the most recent Underwriters Laboratories 2034 standard or International Approval Services 6-96 standard.

Consumers should also have the vent pipes on their heating systems inspected. Earlier this year, virtually the entire furnace and boiler industry together with the manufacturers of high-temperature plastic vent (HTPV) pipes joined with CPSC to announce a vent pipe corrective action program. The program's purpose is to replace, free of charge, an estimated 250,000 HTPV pipe systems attached to gas or propane furnaces or boilers in consumers' homes. The HTPV pipes could crack or separate at the joints and leak CO.

Consumers can check the vent pipes attached to their natural gas or propane furnaces or boilers to determine if they are part of this recall. They can be identified as follows: the vent pipes are plastic; the vent pipes are colored gray or black; and the vent pipes have the names "Plexvent", "Plexvent II" or "Ultravent" stamped on the vent pipe or printed on stickers placed on pieces used to connect the vent pipes together. Consumers should also check the location of these vent pipes. For furnaces, only HTPV systems that have vent pipes that go through the sidewalls of structures (horizontal systems) are subject to this program. For boilers, all HTPV systems are subject to this program. Other plastic vent pipes, such as white PVC or CPVC, are not involved in this program.

After checking the vent pipes, consumers should call the Corrective Action Program toll-free at (800) 758-3688, between 7 a.m. and 11 p.m. EDT, seven days a week, to verify that their appliance venting systems are subject to this program. Consumers with eligible systems will receive new, professionally installed venting systems free of charge. Additionally, consumers who already have replaced their HTPV pipe systems may be eligible for reimbursement for some or all of the replacement costs.

Reprinted from the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission

trading links

2005-09-05T09:44:00.000-07:00

#1 Free Link Exchange Directory On The Web - Link Market
Have you ever tried to exchange links, swap links, or trade links? Was it hard? Use link market instead; - it is easy to use, free and very smart. It will save you hours of work.

Table Saw Blade Alignment

2005-08-28T08:50:00.000-07:00

Checking Table Saw Blade Alignment

To get an accurate crosscut on the table saw, the blade has to be parallel with the saw's miter gauge slots.
A quick way to check this is to use a combination square and a marker.

If your blade isn't parallel to the miter gauge slots, the table saw trunnion needs to be adjusted.

(The trunnion is the assembly that holds the saw's arbor to the underside of the saw table.)

Normally, all you need to do is loosen the bolts that hold the trunnion and tap the trunnion in the direction needed.

To check that your blade is parallel with the miter gauge slot, first mark a tooth. Then place a square in the slot and adjust it so the end of the square just touches the side of the marked tooth.

Rotate Saw Blade

Next, slide the square and rotate the blade backward until the marked tooth aligns with the square.
If the square just touches the side of the tooth, the slot and the blade are aligned.

Before starting any new work project, take the time to make sure everything is square, nothing is more frustrating than cutting a expensive piece of material and finding that it is out of square.

Fixing Miter Joints

2005-08-27T16:05:00.000-07:00

No Wood Putty! - A quick tip for fixing miter joints

If you've ever experienced the frustration of discovering that "little gap" on the outside of your miter joint, you'll appreciate this quick tip.

Woodworkers often try to hide these gaps with wood putties or other fillers, but there's a faster and easier way to solve this problem.

If the gap is small, you can use the edge of a screwdriver to subtly round over the corners. The corners will close in and mask the gap.

The effect is very subtle but effective.

Loose Screws

2005-08-24T07:28:00.000-07:00

Loose Screws?

Screws are a lot harder than wood and it doesn't take much vibration or stress for them to begin to work their way out of the wood.

Rather than replacing the screw with a larger one, try this.

Insert a few tooth picks and a little glue into the hole. The tooth picks should help tighten up the hole and re-secure the screw. Cut the toothpicks off flush with the surface.

When the glue dried the lag screw was a tight as when it was new.

Note:

In more severe cases you might need to re-drill the hole, tap in a glue-covered dowel, and then drill a new pilot hole in the dowel for the screw.

Stripped Screw Heads

2005-08-22T20:05:00.000-07:00

Have you ever snapped off or stripped the head of a screw while trying to force it into hardwood?

Before screwing into hardwood you should always pre-drill a "pilot hole".

A pilot hole should generally be about ½ the diameter of the screw in hard woods and ¼ in softer woods.

Sometimes even with a good pilot hole, a stubborn screw will refuse to go any further.

To solve this simply rub a little moist bar soap or paraffin wax on the threads to act as a lubricant. A little lubricant will make the job a lot easier.

This is especially useful with soft metal screws such as brass and aluminum.

There are not as many slot type screws used these days, they are the ones that were more likley to be stripped. If you used a slot screwdriver which had slightly rounded edges or if you not square to your work, you would end up with a stripped screw head.

Note: Do not use oil or grease as these products may leach out into and stain the wood.

Tips for the Handyman

2005-07-24T10:35:00.000-07:00

I've found countless uses for double-faced cloth carpet tape over the years.

Here are some of my favorites:

Attach patterns made of plywood or hardboard to your workpiece with carpet tape.

Rough-cut the board close to the pattern, then use your router and a pattern bit with a bearing that follows the template to rout the board to final shape.

Stick carpet tape on the flaps of hinges to keep them from moving while you mark their location, drill screw holes, and position doors.

Make triangular clamping blocks and stick them to the outside edges of mitered corners with carpet tape. Then use regular straight clamps across the blocks for the glue-up.

To align false fronts on drawers, push the drawer carcase into its opening in the cabinet.

Stick carpet tape to the back face of the drawer front.

Then position the drawer front in the opening, making sure you have even gaps on all sides, and push the drawer front against the carcase.

Pull out the drawer and screw on the front. You can leave the tape in place.

Attach auxiliary fences to your table saw or router table fence with carpet tape. They hold tight, and there are no clamps to get in the way.

Thanks to, Keith Hennessey for this tip

IN THE HOLE! Golf

Knob Installation

2005-07-20T17:36:00.000-07:00

Measuring for knobs and drawer pulls.

Knobs are installed with one screw while pulls usually have two.

If you are replacing old pulls, youll need to measure the distance between the centers of the screw holes, called the boring, to determine the size of new pulls youll need.

This will prevent the necessity of drilling more holes and patching in the old ones.

You could consider adding new drawer fronts and doors with Rocklers custom door and drawer program.

If you have frame and panel doors and drawers, you'll also want to consider the width of the rails.
As a general rule, knobs or pulls no wider than half the rail width look best.

Knobs or pulls that are too large look awkward and heavy.

Remember that doors and drawers will usually need two different screw lengths.

Drawers with faces applied as a separate piece will require screws to pass through 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" of wood or substrate. Doors are usually made of 3/4" lumber so 1" screws usually work.

While installing one door or drawer pull is relatively easy, installing several quickly gets cumbersome.

Rocklers Drawer Pull Jig-It can save you lots of time, and give you perfect accuracy on each and every pull. Its worth every penny.

Knobs, Pulls, or Both?

2005-07-19T07:32:00.000-07:00

Although its generally a good idea to stick to one theme or style – designer, restoration, decorator, etc. – there are no hard and fast rules dictating the design and usage of kitchen hardware.

Personal preference should dictate your choice. If mixing a selection of knobs and pulls is what pleases you, by all means go for it.

You're going to use your cupboards, cabinets, and drawers a lot so you might as well be happy with what you see.

Determine your hardware requirements.

Make a list to get an accurate count of your needs.

Theres nothing more irritating than not having enough on hand to complete the job.

Take an accurate count and double check it. Its all in the details, so dont forget other necessities such as cabinet legs, shelf pins, or drawer bumpers.

Rockler has a large selection of cabinet hardware.

Knobs, Pulls and Handles

2005-07-18T18:40:00.000-07:00

" Make the Difference "

New door and drawer opening hardware can put a stylish emphasis on your updated kitchen cabinetry.
Its astonishing what can be accomplished with the simplest knob or pull.

Rockler has an outstanding selection of Knobs and Pulls in many different styles to polish off your updated cabinetry.

"Choose a Style"

Before you can add some hardware pizzazz to your kitchen, youll need to choose the style of knobs or pulls you prefer.

Rockler has an exciting array available to suit every style of cabinetry from traditional to Shaker to Euro-style to Restoration.

For a distinguished look, consider adding carved hardwood pulls, or antique finished pulls from Rocklers Premier Collection.

Or perhaps Ivy Leaf Green Pulls from Rocklers designer collection.

Now is the time to have some real fun. There are plenty of other styles and types available.

Cedar aroma

2005-06-13T22:31:00.000-07:00

Want the aroma of your cedar chest back?

The linings of cedar chests and drawers often lose their aroma with time and use.

The aromatic properties of cedar serve as a natural pest deterrent, keeping moths and other insects away from your clothing.
Over time the pores in the cedar can become clogged with dust and dirt or pinched closed from use.
This prevents the aromatic oils from escaping and causes old cedar chests to loose their aroma.

There are many products on the market to "rejuvenate" the aroma in old cedar furniture such as cedar oil extracts and sprays.

A less expensive solution is to lightly sand the surface of the cedar with a fine grit sandpaper (200 grit) and a sanding block. The sandpaper will help "cut" the pores open thus exposing new oil pockets.
Try to sand with the grain to avoid scratch marks and don't over-sand. Usually only a light sanding is needed to rejuvenate the wood.

If the cedar has been finished with a sealant such a varnish or polyurethane you will need to sand through the finish to expose the oils.

Finishes that have deeply penetrated the wood may have permanently sealed the oils into the wood.

Higher Gloss Finish

2005-06-11T08:57:00.000-07:00

If the last coat is to be rubbed to high gloss allow plenty of drying and curing time (depending on coating type and humidity - temperature conditions) prior to any polishing or rubbing.

Polishing or rubbing materials depend on the hardness of the cured coating to produce an even and predictable result.

Note: many finishes take much longer after “dry enough to handle” to reach the final complete cure required to polish a finish to a high gloss.

Lacquer will reach final hardness and cure in 21 days under good conditions.

Traditional gloss oil based enamels should cure 30 days if a rubbed higher gloss finish is desired.

The Finishing coat

2005-06-10T06:56:00.000-07:00

The look of the FINAL or TOP COAT is the result of good preperation and completing the job with care.

Many finishers, in a rush to this end, omit the necessary foundation work that will provide the lasting look and result in durable performance.

This top coat gives the desired esthetic sheen, but the total look and character of the finish comes from the work put into the Base of the job,the base priming and the build up coats that give you the look of depth.

If a matte, semi-gloss, or satin sheen is desired apply only as a last top coat.

Finishes built up with adjusted sheen materials lack durability and clarity.

Uneven sheens and a foggy look of the final cured coat are common and symptomatic in lacquer finishes built up with a flatted or less than gloss sheen.

Careful preparation prior to this last “LOOK coat” by sanding with fine paper, careful removal of dust from the surface, and sanitation in the work area pay off in a lot of saved labor.

Lacquers or Painted finishes

2005-06-09T07:55:00.000-07:00

In solid opaque lacquers or painted finishes.

The gloss product has all the best in hardness and durability characteristics including resistance to dents and impressions.

With moisture proof or moisture resistant coatings the hardness or density and porosity of the wood substrate will dictate the required number of build coats.

The best moisture proof coating can not do it’s job if the coating thickness does not provide for wear and a non permeable membrane.

When moisture resistance is important, always give at least one more coat than it takes to look, just good.

The one extra topcoat will more than double resistance to moisture.
If it is outside it will get rained on sometime.

After the primer coat

2005-06-07T06:54:00.000-07:00

The NECESSITY of the BUILD COATS

The build or body coats are the part of a finish that provide moisture resistance, durability and longevity to the coating.

Depth in clear or translucent finishes and richness of coloured coatings depend on these build coats.

For clear coatings, where the structure, grain and tone of the wood are visible, use only gloss for build coats.

Gloss body or build coats maintain clarity and eliminate the foggy, dull or milky look associated when semi-gloss or altered sheens are used to build the body of a finish.

Wood Sealers

2005-06-05T19:54:00.000-07:00

THE IMPORTANCE of the FIRST COAT!

Unlike metal or plastic surfaces, wood presents a substrate that varies in density, porosity, and stability.
It should go without saying that almost no coating or finish can overcome a poorly prepared surface.
Prepare the surface of the substrate in character with the desired finish result.

If an extra smooth surface is specified, then sanding, grain filling, and defect filling of some sort is indicated.
The best finish cannot overcome an ill prepared surface.

The first coat on new wood seals and evens out differences in porosity and density.
On softer woods and on face grain this sealer coat may require 2 applications to provide an even base for the build coats.

If an area shows little or no sealer build by comparison to the surrounding surface the build coats then have to make up for the lack of a proper sealer or primer foundation.

Wood Finish

2005-06-04T20:42:00.000-07:00

Wood Finish
A basic good finish for any wood surface can be described as:

1. A Base Coat or coats.
2. Build Coats.
3. Top Coat.

These 3 basic finish steps apply to all finishes from the most basic wax or oil finish to high-tec coatings and even painting the exterior of a house or a room wall.

The coats that comprise a finish and what they do.

You can think of a paint, lacquer, varnish, oil, or even a wax finish on wood in the terms of a building.

The Base sealer or primer coat, provides the foundation of the finish.

The Build coats provide the structure or framework of the finish itself, much as the framing of a house.

The Top coat gives the finish its final character and look wether it be high gloss or the subtle richness of a matte sheen.

Machinists' Vise

2005-06-01T18:05:00.000-07:00

Quick-Mount Machinists' Vise:
I don't use my machinists' vise all that much.

So it's usually stored beneath my bench. But when I need to work with metal parts, I still want a quick way to secure the vise, without bolting it to a workbench.

The solution is to bolt the vise to a T-shaped platform that tightens in the front vise of the workbench.

It's just a ¾″-thick piece of plywood glued and screwed to a short piece of "two-by-4" material.

Note: To provide clearance for long, vertical workpieces, position the machinists' vise so the back jaw sticks out past the front edge of the plywood.

Skill Saw: Use with a guide

2005-05-30T08:41:00.000-07:00

You can make up more sawguide with customized lengths for any number of other applications.

I highly recommend making up an 8 foot saw guide for making rip cuts on 4 by 8 material.

With both a 4 foot and an 8 foot sawguide you'll have everything you need to start cutting panels out of 4 by 8 sheets for making cabinet carcasses.

A couple of wise old carpenters used this sawguide to cut off the bottom of interior doors to clear newly installed carpet.
The beauty of the sawguide in this application is that when there is a need to cut the bottom off of a beautifully finished and expensive door, the saw never touches the door and there is no risk of scratches.

The sawguide also controls the nasty fraying of wood fibers and veneers when cutting across the grain.

skill saw guide

2005-05-29T12:38:00.000-07:00

To use your sawguide just measure your material to be cut and make your pencil mark as usual.

Lay your sawguide on the "keeper side" (vs. the cut off side) of your pencil line on the material to be cut with the single thickness long edge of the sawguide right on the pencil line.

Carefully clamp each end of the sawguide to your work with spring clamps positioning them at a 45 degree angle to the sawguide (make sure that you're still right on the line when your done).

Now, set your saw to the appropriate depth and run it down the guide as you did before with the saw foot against the guide ripper, and PRESTO!, you have a straight as an arrow, dead-on accurate cut you can be proud of!

saw guide 4

2005-05-27T07:33:00.000-07:00

After you have finished fastening the components together and all of the fasteners are set or flush and the glue is dried there is only one more thing to do and your done!

All you have to do now is to take your circular saw and set the depth of cut a little deeper than the thickness of the sawboard base.

Position your saw so that the motor side of its table (or foot) is against the edge of the guide ripper and the saw foot itself is resting on the open side of the saw board base.

Then slowly and carefully make your cut making sure that you stay tight against the edge of the guide ripper until the excess material of the sawguide base is cut off.

That's it!
That's all there is to it!
You now have your very own customized sawguide straight cut system that will serve you well for many years to come.

saw guide part 3

2005-05-26T06:21:00.000-07:00

All you have to do is attach the guide ripper to the sawboard base at one long edge flush to three sides.
You can use whatever fastening system that suits your fancy but I recommend using yellow carpenters glue and clamping until dry.

If you glue, keep an eye on the edge alignment as you clamp, sometimes clamps will push pieces out of alignment as you tighten them down.

Also have a damp rag handy to catch those gushes and oozes (this could be real important for the accuracy of the saw guide).

If you decide to nail or screw, either one will work just fine, but just be careful to set and countersink everything and be sure that there are no points poking through otherwise it will defeat one of the great features of the sawguide we will discuss later.

The saw guide

2005-05-25T21:59:00.000-07:00

The saw guide can be made out of just about any kind of 1/4" or 3/8" material like plywood, masonite, flake board, or whatever.
You might be able to find something laying around the shop for free!

The sawguide only has two components, we'll call them the guide ripper, and the sawguide base.

If you don't have a table saw you might seek out one you can borrow for fabricating these parts because if the guide ripper isn't straight as an arrow none of your future cuts with your sawguide will be either.

The guide ripper should be 4" wide or a little more. The sawguide base should be the entire width of the saw foot base of your circular saw, plus the four inches for the guide ripper.

Both the guide ripper and the sawguide base should be about 50 inches long or enough to lap over the width of a 4 by 8 sheet of material.

What is a sawboard

2005-05-24T20:34:00.000-07:00

Out of all of the weapons in this mans arsenal, my sawboard has to be one of the most used and most functional pieces of equipment, as well as the least expensive to acquire. There aren't enough accolades to describe it!

In the simplest of terms the sawboard is a straight edge circular saw guide. Now, I know what your probably thinking right now:

"Yea right, another clumsy, pain in the butt saw guide thing that takes forever to get aligned and clamped only to find out that you've trashed the cut because it missed the line!"...Right?

Believe me I know exactly how you feel.

For years as a professional I tried just about everything on and off of the market and the only methods that gave me accuracy I needed for cabinet work took forever to measure and clamp, and then re-measure and clamp again several times before I could even make one cut.

What if I told you that with the sawboard there is no measuring for alignment with your cut? And then, what if I told you that the clamping literally takes only seconds?

Dowel

2005-05-21T12:36:00.000-07:00

Storage Rack

Like many woodworkers, I keep several different size dowels on hand.

To provide easy access to the one I need, I made a simple storage rack.

The rack consists of three pieces of PVC pipe that "stairstep" up in height (10″, 22″, and 34″ in my case).

If a dowel is too short to stick out the top of a pipe, it's still visible through a "window" opening in front.
When cutting this opening on the a bandsaw, it's a good idea to clamp the pipe to a board to keep it from rolling.

tools

2005-05-20T21:39:00.000-07:00

At one time or another we all do something that we regret, the more cheap tools we buy the more regrets we have.

Often it is better to put off purchasing a tool if you can't afford to buy a quality item, eventually it will go on sale, or you may find a used one at a garage sale, flea market.

I would be wary of used power tools, however I would definitely advise buying used hand tools, especially older brand names providing they have not been abused, generally the quality is superior to the newer models.

Another advantage to buying quality tools is that, heaven forbide, you don't wish to continue with the hobby they will have a much better resale value.

Let your friends and relatives know you are interested, often they will have tools that they no longer use and will be glad to give them a new home.

Soldering Iron Stand

2005-05-18T20:46:00.000-07:00

My small pen-type soldering iron doesn't have any stand or support, so I'm always worried about burning my benchtop when I put the soldering iron down.

Rather than take the time to build a stand, I use a large binder clip meant to hold a large stack of paper together.

I just slip the binder clip on the shaft of my soldering iron and use the clip's handle as legs.

This set up is also handy for supporting the soldering iron in position when I need to hold something with both hands.

Thanks to Allan kirschner for this idea, it works great

Pencil Cushion

2005-05-17T08:17:00.000-07:00

Shop "Pencil Cushion"

Pencils used to have a mysterious way of disappearing from my shop — until I started using this "pencil cushion".

It's just a piece of pipe insulation that fits onto a wall stud.

Sticking pencils in the cushion keeps them handy and keeps the tips from breaking.

Sharpen a Scraper

2005-05-16T14:47:00.000-07:00

Sharpening a Scraper for Woodturning

Sharpening a scraper is easy.

The first thing you'll need to do is set the tool rest to match the bevel angle on the scraper.

With the rest locked in place, creating the burr is just a matter of setting the scraper flat on the rest and sliding the cutting edge along the edge of the wheel.

As you grind the scraper, a burr forms along the top edge.

For curved edges, the technique is a little different.

To avoid grinding a flat spot, you'll need to swing the handle to the side as you move the cutting edge across the edge of the wheel.

Sharp Tool Holder

2005-05-15T20:46:00.000-07:00

I use a number of small, sharp tools for scribing, marking, and cutting workpieces.

But it's hard to protect the blades of these tools if they're stored loose in a drawer or toolbox.

To protect the sharp edges but still keep each tool close at hand, I made a small knife and tool holder.

It's nothing more than a piece of dense foam insulation (the blue stuff).

To keep my block anchored to my workbench, I built a wood frame to fit around the foam.

When the foam gets too chewed up, I just flip it over.

Corners

2005-05-14T15:17:00.000-07:00

The corners of a shop often get filled with clutter.

Tucking a tool like a drill press into a corner can take advantage of wasted space.

Yet you can still drill holes in a long workpiece because of the distance between the adjoining walls,

Transferring a Pattern

2005-05-12T19:17:00.000-07:00

To transfer a pattern to a workpiece, we used a simple trick.

All it required was a photocopy of the pattern and an ordinary household iron.

With the photocopy placed face down against the workpiece, slowly move the iron (set on high) back and forth.

The heat from the iron reactivates the toner on the photocopy and transfers the image to the workpiece.

Checking Table Saw Blade Alignment

2005-05-10T22:53:00.000-07:00

To get an accurate crosscut on the table saw, the blade has to be parallel with the saw's miter gauge slots.

A quick way to check this is to use a combination square and a marker

If your blade isn't parallel to the miter gauge slots, the table saw trunnion needs to be adjusted.

(The trunnion is the assembly that holds the saw's arbor to the underside of the saw table.) Normally, all you need to do is loosen the bolts that hold the trunnion and tap the trunnion in the direction needed.

To check that your blade is parallel with the miter gauge slot, first mark a tooth.

Then place a square in the slot and adjust it so the end of the square just touches the side of the marked tooth.

Rotate Saw Blade Next, slide the square and rotate the blade backward until the marked tooth aligns with the square.
If the square just touches the side of the tooth, the slot and the blade are aligned.

protecing your tablesaw top

2005-05-09T21:39:00.000-07:00

Preventing Table Top Rust

There are two basic steps we follow for maintaining a cast iron table top on a table saw and other stationary tools: remove rust and dirt, and seal it with a protective topcoat.

We're always on the lookout for rust so we can stop it before it becomes a problem.

Grit-embedded scouring blocks, like this Sandflex, work great for removing rust and grime from a cast iron table top.

After removing any rust, seal the top by spraying on a protective topcoat.

Spray-on topcoat products are available at hardware stores and woodworking stores.

In addition to rust protection, they also act as a sort of lubricant so workpieces slide smoothly across the table.

great Idea

2005-05-08T21:22:00.000-07:00

Power Tool Shelf. Two shelves about 4" apart.

Besides providing storage for my portable power tools, this simple shelf solves another nagging problems as well — keeping the power cords from getting tangled up.

Each power cord fits in a separate compartment below the tool.

These compartments are formed by a number of dividers that are sandwiched between a top and bottom.

The location of the dividers is determined by the amount of space each tool requires.

Note: To allow the base of the tool to sit flat on the shelf, you may need to modify the top by cutting slots or drilling holes to acommodate blades or bits.

Fred Nordby

Red Deer, Alberta

push sticks for safety

2005-05-06T12:44:00.000-07:00

This simple safety tool will help you keep all of your fingers safe when working around your router table or table saw.

When working around the blades of your table saw or router table a slip could mean disaster.

Push sticks and Push Blocks are intended to take some of this danger away from your fingers.

They allow you to rip and shape smaller pieces of stock with a greater level of safety. There are a number of commercial push sticks and push block available, but it is just as easy to make one.

There is not just one ideal shape or size. This varies from woodworker to woodworker, machine to machine, and application to application.
There are three basic designs that you can customize to meet your needs. Make your push sticks and blocks from straight, clean, hardwood.
Plywood is preferable since it is less likely to split, warp, or crack. Round the handles to prevent splinters.

Rectangular Push StickThe rectangular push stick is used to apply greater downward pressure on wider stock.
The push block is ideal for shaping or jointing applications. It allows you to apply a great deal of downward and forward pressure.

Appetite Control Naturally from MotherNature.com

Decks

2005-04-23T22:38:00.000-07:00

The Carpentry tools we need for starting a home project depend on the type of project you want to take on.

Before you start you should check the local building codes and get the proper permits before you start, this may save you money and a lot of headaches.

You will need most of the tools we looked at.

A project that will add to the value of your home is a deck.

There is no end to the styles and shapes of decks.

Lawn & Garden

Block Planes

2005-04-22T22:42:00.000-07:00

Block planes are designed to shear off end grain as the blade is mounted at a very low angle making them very useful in trimming and fitting.
Stanley hand planes have dominated the market for a very long time. ( look in you fathers or grandfathers carpentry tool box and you will likley find one or two).

Jointers

2005-04-21T21:20:00.000-07:00

Jointers (another type of hand plane, in this case you would use two hands)

These are very long planes used to flatten and joint the faces of boards, they range from 18" to 30". (45 to 75 cm)

They are used to level wide surfaces such as glued up stock that are uneven.

They are not used much these days as they have been replaced by affordable Jointer/Planers which range from 10 to 16" wide and surface one side at a time.

Tools

Jack Planes

2005-04-19T22:10:00.000-07:00

These are similar looking to smoothing planes but have a longer base, These hand planes are generaly 12 to 15" long.
They are used mostly for heavy work, for removing large quantities of wood quickly.

You can adjust the depth of the blade to take of a small amout of wood and are realy good if you are trying to level stock that has been glued together to make a wide surface.

smoothing planes

2005-04-18T21:30:00.000-07:00

There are many diferent styles of hand planes some made of steel, others made from wood.

Planes for smoothing, these are 8" to 9" long and 1 3/4" to 2" wide.

The short length makes them great for trouble spots, where the grain changes direction and has to be planed in different directions along its length.

These planes can be adjusted (as all planes can be ) to cut a very fine shaving from the wood.

By taking a fine cut reduces the chance of ripping out some of the grain.

If you are in a museum check out some of the real old ones that have a wooden wedge holding the blade in.

hand plane

2005-04-16T20:38:00.000-07:00

I can remember my fathers toolbox, had about four or five different sizes of hand planes in it.

they is still around and used for many jobs.
There are a lot of power tools which have taken away some of the jobs that called for hand planes, but there is no better sence of accomplishment than running your fingers over a p[iece of wood which you have just finished by hand.

There aren't as many types as there once were.

A decent new plane will cost $40 and up at the hardware store.

Look for used hand planes for sale at flea markets and garage sales. These vintage tools were built to last, and there's plenty of life in them still.
You can take off just a thin slice of wood, no tool is better for shaving the edge of a sticking door, chamfering the corner of a board, or straightening one that is twisted or warped. That's why most carpenters still pack a hand plane or two in their toolboxes.

Carpentry Tools @ canadiantire.ca

more on router

2005-04-15T09:08:00.000-07:00

After trying both directions, , there is a correct way to rout a groove.

Like any hand-held router operation, the router should move left to right.

If the router is moved in the wrong direction, the rotation of the bit can cause the router base to drift away from the fence.

When fed the correct way, the rotation of the bit keeps the base of the router pulled tight against the fence.

using a router

2005-04-14T22:09:00.000-07:00

The right way to feed a hand-held router across a workpiece.

When it comes to routing along the edge of a workpiece, everyone agrees it's best to feed the router from left to right.

This way, the bit cuts cleanly into the wood and won't bounce along the edge.
But what about when routing a groove or dado?

With wood on both sides of the bit, is there a wrong direction to push the router?

Rules for Cutting Plywood

2005-04-10T23:20:00.000-07:00

Avoid Cross Cutting across the grain, Plywood tends to chip the most when cut across its width (grain).
Cutting along the length of the wood will help to reduce chipping.

Use the Right Blade: Special blades are manufactured for different cutting jobs.

Choose a blade that best matches your specific cutting situation.

cutting expensive wood or plywood

2005-03-31T21:39:00.000-08:00

One way to reduce the fraying on the cut, when using a table saw, is to make sure the rip fence is perfectly in line with the saw blade. if it is off line a little bit you will see evidence of fraying on the back side of the cut.
A good quality Rip Fence is very important.

You can try masking tape over the cut line to help keep the fibers on the edge from pulling up.

Or Use a Router, fitted with a straight bit will cut a clean line. A pilot bit and straight edge will help provide a clean line.

cutting plywood

2005-03-26T18:38:00.000-08:00

When using a Circular Saw, put the best face of the wood down, this will give you a clean cut.

Using Table Saw, it is just the opposite, turn the best side up.

NorthernTool.com

Another machine for your woodworking shop

2005-03-24T22:05:00.000-08:00

Belt Sander

Belt sanders are great for heavy sanding of lumber, and shaping woodworking projects.

There are many other uses for the belt sanders.

They are excelent for rapid sanding of rough pieces but care should be taken when you are close to completion of your project.

You should sand with the grain.

Sanding across the grain may leave sanding marks, which will be hard to take out.

todays tool

Drill Press

2005-03-23T07:26:00.000-08:00

Drill presses are realy good for drilling consistent holes in wood.

They can (depending on the size) drill holes, about 3" deep. This depth is good for most wood working projects, which you use your drill press on.

They are suited best for drilling through metal.
Care should be taken when doing this, make sure the stock is well held down to reduce the risk of injury if the piece comes loose.

This machine like most of the power tools you use work the best if you do not feed them to fast.

Biscuit Joiner

2005-03-22T09:43:00.000-08:00

If you are working with narrow stock and you want to glue them together to make larger flat surface like workbenches, table tops or drawer front, ect.

A biscuit joiner is an excellent tool for joining together pieces of wood.

This tool cuts a small slot in each side of a joint, you insert a biscuit in the slot with glue. This makes the joint much stronger and keeps the pieces being glued, lined up.

A biscuit joiner can really ruduce the time of assembly for a project.

wood working lathe

2005-03-21T12:46:00.000-08:00

A number of years ago our first child was on the way and I wanted to build a crib for the baby.
I did not have a lathe to turn the spindles for the sides and end of the crib.
I worked at a manufacturing plant, they had a machine shop. I worked nearby and had the machinist teach me how to operate the big lathes.
We made a small lathe for turning wood, it worked well but the turning tools we made did not work very well.

The quality of the turning tools you use makes a big difference, so don't skimp on the quality of turning tools you buy.

Band saw

2005-03-20T15:05:00.000-08:00

Band Saw You can use a band saw for a number of projects. It’s extremely useful for cutting shapes and curves.

You can also use a bandsaw for re-sawing lumber and cutting boards from logs but this takes a large band saw with some specilized accesories to hold the log while cutting the lumber.

Routers

2005-03-18T19:40:00.000-08:00

Routers come in two different styles, a fixed one and a plunge style.
The fixed style, (the one I have) works well and can be mounted under the table, of my table saw. This setup is very useful, as I can use the rip fence which is on the table saw.

My router is a 1/4 inch model which is good for most of my projects, on bigger and heavier work, the 1/2 " may be the one you prefer.
Before you buy one, shop around, (there are some real good deals around), visit some of the forums which deal with woodworking.
Talk to the salesperson, ask for a brochure and warrantee, before you purchase. Most good Hardware stores have a very good return and repair/replacement program.
Make sure it will handle the work you will want to do today and tomorrow.

As time goes by, we become more expierenced at wood working,we tend to take on more complicated work.
Be sure to purchase top quality carbide tipped bits, (you will be glad you did).

Another tool you need

2005-03-17T20:42:00.000-08:00

Jig Saw

A jig saw is great for cutting curves and rough outlines, and a multitude of other uses.

The small size make it a very important tool for your shop. Pick a model with variable speed and a rotating head.

The next tool for your homeworkshop

2005-03-16T22:03:00.000-08:00

Finishing Sander

It’s great for smoothing out a surface for painting or finishing.

You can also use it to round over edges on some of your projects.

This type of sander generally uses a ¼ piece of sandpaper and is used for finish sanding.

generators on sale

2005-03-13T23:03:00.000-08:00

check out this line of lighting plants on at great prices

Tools for around the home

2005-03-13T14:03:00.000-08:00

The first tools you need to do most of the jobs around the homeand yard.
A good drill and a circular saw.

One of the most versitile tools you can have around the workshop is a good cordless drill. They are more convenient but are also quite a bit more expensive. A regular drill (1/2") for the heavier jobs.
there is a veriety for every budget and every need.

You can use a circular saw to trim down plywood and perform basic cuts on 2"x4"s. There are a number of woodworking plans out there that only require these two tools.

Basic Equipment for your Workshop

2005-03-11T12:15:00.000-08:00

Table saw.

Often the first choice of shop owners, table saws range in power and size.

Motors range from one to three horsepower. 1-1/2 hp is often powerful enough for home workshops. Most table saws sold are belt-drive models.

There are some direct drive models as well.

lighting plants

2005-03-10T14:44:00.000-08:00

looked at lot of light plants, (Generator) there is one for every need, from one that will only run a few light bulbs to those that will run a household and more.
depending what your budget, you will find one, which will fit into it.

A word of advice, if you buy one that fits your budget today, sure as the sun comes up you will need a bigger one as time goes by.
Bite the bullet and spend the extra money, it will be money well spent.

Coleman 5,000W Electric Generator

Control panel with two 120V outlets, one 120/240V twistlock, and circuit breaker protection
Full perimeter, one inch steel, wrap around carrier protects generator from damage
5,000 rated watts with 6,250 surge watts of power
Large 5-gallon fuel tank for 6 hours of run time at 50% load
10-hp Tecumseh engine with low oil shutdown
Features a low oil red light alert indicator
Assembly required
Weight: 147 lbs (66.7kg)
Model No. PC0525302.03

rockler specials on hardware

2005-03-07T14:14:00.000-08:00

specials from rockler

check out these hot specials

rockler catalogue

2005-03-07T11:02:00.000-08:00

catalogue

drill bit sets

2005-03-07T10:46:00.000-08:00

15-piece Spade Bit Set

Ideal set for anyone who enjoys woodworking
Unique stand-up case makes it easy to see and reach the right spade
Set includes two 1/2" bits, two 1" bits, 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 9/16", 5/8", 3/4", 1½", 1-3/8", 1¼", 1-1/8" & 7/8" bits

Jobmate 26-piece Drill Bit Set

Includes 13 high-speeds-steel drill bits, 6 spade bits, 6 screwdrivers bits, and a magnetic bit holer

Carpentry Tools

2005-03-07T10:34:00.001-08:00

Carpentry Tools

back up power

2005-03-07T04:54:00.000-08:00

I have a portable generator which I purchaced a number of years ago. It is a 3000 watt Coleman with a 8 hp Brigg & Stratton motor.
It has been a fair backup system, although It is quite noisy and the tank is on the small size.

I have found that there is a large swing in the output from 95-130 volts.
There is not a noticable change in the rpm of the motor when running, with nothing plugged into it.

When running power tools off the gererator, You can here it working hard with the bigger tools, with bigger noise problems that the nieghors do not enjoy, even with a new muffler.

Over the next while I will be looking to replace my current generator and the new one, it will have to be quite, with a little more output, about 4-5000 watts.

I intend to use it at camp and has to be very portable so I can use it on some of my hobbies which are done away from home.

new lighting from led's

2005-03-03T10:04:00.000-08:00

I have been watching the progress of the developement of led's, (light emitting diodes). I would like to be able to use them, to reduce my lighting costs, around my home and shop.
The prices are still on the high side.
As the led light bulbs come down in price, they would make a good fit for your lighting needs.

Look at the price of led christmas lights this past christmas, they came out at a reasonable price, and are just about indestructable.
I bought some and they are rated for 200,000 hrs. (22 years if I left them on all year long).
There were some boasting 50,000 hr. life span, at about half the cost and not as bright.

At the same time I have been looking at the prices of solar panels. They have come down in price significantly in the last few years and are now becoming a excelent, cost efficient backup for normal Hydro electric power.

With the rising cost of Hydro, and the threat of brown-outs, or worse yet, hydro failures, like the ones we have been seeing more of, over the last few years.

Installing a small Solar system, (45-50 watts) can handle at least some of your lighting, and small appliance use.
Depending where you live, it may be worth further look at.

Size of your workshop

2005-02-24T16:58:00.000-08:00

If your workshop/garage is small like mine you will have to use the space wisely.

I have built a workbench, 60” wide X 28 “deep X 38”high, which can be rolled out from the wall, into the area I am working, it is the same height as my table saw (also on wheels) and also serves as a landing table. I still have trouble ripping a sheet of plywood.
My bench saw can be moved here and there with ease.

On the back of the bench I have a leaf which can be lifted up to make the top another 16”wider.
The workbench has four drawers with the sides only 2” high with heavy-duty drawer glides.

I put my chop saw on one side (top shelf), grinder on the other side of the center divider.
My other tools (the lighter ones) go in the bottom drawers.
I did not put doors on the front.
I installed receptacles on both sides of the bench on a heavy cord to plug into the wall outlets.

when I am finished working for the day I do put things away to put the car in.

more on lights and plugins

2005-02-16T22:47:00.000-08:00

Many work shops, using basement rooms, or part of the family garage, don't have the light needed for doing a lot of projects.
If you are positioning a workbench in your shop, hold a broom handle vertically, then check for shadows.
Move your workbench around to find the place with the least amount of shadows.

If you have strong shadows on one or more sides, buying more lights may save a lot of eye strain.
Flouresent lights are cheaper to operate than ordinary light bulbs.

As you get older, there never seems to be enough light.

Consider painting the room a light color to reflect the light better.

great article on a chopsaw

2005-02-15T20:15:00.000-08:00

this chopsaw article
Since the chop saw came onto the market, they transformed the way we cut interior trim, but they'd also become indispensable for exterior finish work as well as for siding and decking.

plugs and lights for the workshop

2005-02-14T07:42:00.000-08:00

If you are setting up or remodeling your workshop, plan to install at least one outlet every four feet around the perimeter, this should ensure that you are beside a stud if they are on 16 or 24 inch centers.

You can never have enough recepticals in the work shop.

It is also a good idea to install extra outlets in the ceiling, over the area which your power tools will be used the most.

The outlets are great for adding lights without having cords laying around the floor or across your workbench.

your workshop

2005-02-10T20:08:00.000-08:00

When setting up workbenches, the height should be set at about hip-pocket level.

But, also, consider the height of your table saw. If the bench and the saw are the same height, you can use the bench for extra support when sawing oversized materials.

If you are setting up a new workshop in an empty space you will be able to design it to accommodate the equipment you allready have. You should be able to have a very effiecent work space.

If you are moving into a ready made area with workbenches and shelving. Look at your tools and equipment, how are they going to fit?

Measure the space , wall to wall, corner to corner, (this will give you an idea if the room is square, for later changes) mark the existing plugs,lights, and the wiring lay out if you can. measure all of the shop equipment you have, height,width, ect.
You will need all these measurments, to best utilize your work space, even if you have a large shop it will get filled up too fast.
There are some real good ideas for storing the tools you are not using.

Useful Hardware you use in and around your place

Make your Saw Horse more versitile

Home Renovation, Now ??

Buying the New Latest Tool

Cordless Drill Battery Packs

Cordless Drill Features

Match the Tool to the Job

BUYING BASICS for Drills

BATTERIES AND CHARGERS

Two Speed Cordless Drills

Adjustable Clutch on Cordless Drill

Grips on drills

Cordless Drill Batteries

Cordless drill photo and parts

Cordless Drills

Safety Tip Reminder

Woodworking Shop Safety 10 Safety Tips to Post in Your Shop

Ionization Smoke Detectors

Smoke Alarm with Lithium Battery

Smoke Detectors for the Shop and Home

Cordless Electric Hedge Trimmer

Corded electric Hedge Trimmer

Hedge Trimmer

Lawn Mowers for the rugged yard

Tools for Planting

Yard Tools

Tools for the Yard

Power Hand Planers

Home Heat Leaks

Square up your Drill Press Table

A Little smile for today

Working with your wood lathe

Carbon Monoxide and Heating Safely

trading links

Table Saw Blade Alignment

Fixing Miter Joints

Loose Screws

Stripped Screw Heads

Tips for the Handyman

Knob Installation

Knobs, Pulls, or Both?

Knobs, Pulls and Handles

Cedar aroma

Higher Gloss Finish

The Finishing coat

Lacquers or Painted finishes

After the primer coat

Wood Sealers

Wood Finish

Machinists' Vise

Skill Saw: Use with a guide

skill saw guide

saw guide 4

saw guide part 3

The saw guide

What is a sawboard

Dowel

tools

Soldering Iron Stand

Pencil Cushion

Sharpen a Scraper

Sharp Tool Holder

Corners

Transferring a Pattern

Checking Table Saw Blade Alignment

protecing your tablesaw top

great Idea

push sticks for safety

Decks

Block Planes

Jointers

Jack Planes

smoothing planes

hand plane

more on router

using a router

Rules for Cutting Plywood

cutting expensive wood or plywood

cutting plywood

Another machine for your woodworking shop

Woodworking Shop Safety
10 Safety Tips to Post in Your Shop